wahooschock made me curious about this
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LiquidChaos66
Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 2,603
I have a really cool old WWII grenade box and think it would be a fun winter project to turn it into a humi... If I can get ahold of some good Spanish cedar how thick should it be to make sufficient walls for a stable environment? Also how would one construct a lining? Wood glue and staples or just wood glue? Input? I don't know the dimensions of said box but yeah... just prejudging if it will be worth my time as an novice wood worker.
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they have kits on ebay for ammo boxes. didn't dig too hard though cause im looking bigger. bet theyd make a good low count humi for daily smokes.im not doing the trunk up anymore than just a storage unit for several small tupidors. but I still intend to find another donor to do up over winter.go for it ya cant become a master of anything by not starting as a novice.
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Oh ive seen the ammo boxes... This is a grenade box. I think its about 16"x12"x8". Its made of a simple pine I think. But im gonna line it with something to keep the two woods apart.
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I'd go at least 1/4" thickness. The thicker the better.LiquidChaos66:If I can get ahold of some good Spanish cedar how thick should it be to make sufficient walls for a stable environment?
I used 3/8" on mine and it has worked out fine.
Most lumber yards probably won't carry spanish cedar, unless it's a real specialty store and they get a lot of furniture makers.
Instead, check your local woodworking store ... a place like this: http://www.woodcraft.com
Being a (lower than) amateur woodworker when I put mine together .... I just used Elmer's wood glue (sparingly) and butt joints. No fasteners/staples needed. It's held together just fine.LiquidChaos66:Also how would one construct a lining? Wood glue and staples or just wood glue?
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Awesome!
That's simple enough for me! Ill check out that site to see what prices look like and possibly get the ball rolling! Another question though... Should I put some sort of barrier between the grenade box wood and the cedar? or would it be ok to have them in full contact? -
no, a barrier isn't necessary.LiquidChaos66:Awesome! That's simple enough for me! Ill check out that site to see what prices look like and possibly get the ball rolling! Another question though... Should I put some sort of barrier between the grenade box wood and the cedar? or would it be ok to have them in full contact?
as long as the grenade box doesn't have an overwhelming smell or have an intense odor to it you will be fine. -
This just may be a fun project this winter then. Thanks for the info! Much appreciated!
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welcome; yep pretty easy to put together IMO.LiquidChaos66:This just may be a fun project this winter then. Thanks for the info! Much appreciated!
if you get the spanish cedar from a local store they should be able to cut it to size for you so all you'll have to do is apply glue and drop it in. (might charge a couple $$ for a cutting fee though)
but.....if you end up having to cut or sand any of the spanish cedar wear a respirator/mask!!!! -
I will do some research of whats in my area. I know there is an exotic/specialty wood dealer in Portland but I don't know what they stock.
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If they don't stock it they will be able to get it. I got to my local specialty wood dealer and they order whatever I need and add it to their order so I don't have to pay shipping.
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It won't hurt to have the two touch but if you don't line or seal the box first you will have a very hard time getting it to hold humidity, the cedar breaths and the humidity that you are trying to keep in won't be trapped, as it seeps through the cedar it will affect the expansion and contraction of your box. In the past I have used urethane as a sealer and it works well, most recently I have been using a liquid rubber compound and I like this better it's easier to use and dries faster I also think it seals better. If you can find a real lumber yard (not HD or Lowes) they should have the cedar and it will be a LOT cheaper than W.Craft. Lot's of luck to you on thisLiquidChaos66:Awesome! That's simple enough for me! Ill check out that site to see what prices look like and possibly get the ball rolling! Another question though... Should I put some sort of barrier between the grenade box wood and the cedar? or would it be ok to have them in full contact? -
onestrangeone:
It won't hurt to have the two touch but if you don't line or seal the box first you will have a very hard time getting it to hold humidity, the cedar breaths and the humidity that you are trying to keep in won't be trapped, as it seeps through the cedar it will affect the expansion and contraction of your box. In the past I have used urethane as a sealer and it works well, most recently I have been using a liquid rubber compound and I like this better it's easier to use and dries faster I also think it seals better. If you can find a real lumber yard (not HD or Lowes) they should have the cedar and it will be a LOT cheaper than W.Craft. Lot's of luck to you on thisLiquidChaos66:Awesome! That's simple enough for me! Ill check out that site to see what prices look like and possibly get the ball rolling! Another question though... Should I put some sort of barrier between the grenade box wood and the cedar? or would it be ok to have them in full contact?
So the sealants that you used didn't leave behind any odor or anything? I guess that would be my concern with adding a sealant. -
No odors, the Urethane has to completely cure (1 - 2 wks) the rubber membrane is a low VOC to start, both are neutral when cured.LiquidChaos66:onestrangeone:
It won't hurt to have the two touch but if you don't line or seal the box first you will have a very hard time getting it to hold humidity, the cedar breaths and the humidity that you are trying to keep in won't be trapped, as it seeps through the cedar it will affect the expansion and contraction of your box. In the past I have used urethane as a sealer and it works well, most recently I have been using a liquid rubber compound and I like this better it's easier to use and dries faster I also think it seals better. If you can find a real lumber yard (not HD or Lowes) they should have the cedar and it will be a LOT cheaper than W.Craft. Lot's of luck to you on thisLiquidChaos66:Awesome! That's simple enough for me! Ill check out that site to see what prices look like and possibly get the ball rolling! Another question though... Should I put some sort of barrier between the grenade box wood and the cedar? or would it be ok to have them in full contact?
So the sealants that you used didn't leave behind any odor or anything? I guess that would be my concern with adding a sealant. -
onestrangeone:
No odors, the Urethane has to completely cure (1 - 2 wks) the rubber membrane is a low VOC to start, both are neutral when cured.LiquidChaos66:onestrangeone:
It won't hurt to have the two touch but if you don't line or seal the box first you will have a very hard time getting it to hold humidity, the cedar breaths and the humidity that you are trying to keep in won't be trapped, as it seeps through the cedar it will affect the expansion and contraction of your box. In the past I have used urethane as a sealer and it works well, most recently I have been using a liquid rubber compound and I like this better it's easier to use and dries faster I also think it seals better. If you can find a real lumber yard (not HD or Lowes) they should have the cedar and it will be a LOT cheaper than W.Craft. Lot's of luck to you on thisLiquidChaos66:Awesome! That's simple enough for me! Ill check out that site to see what prices look like and possibly get the ball rolling! Another question though... Should I put some sort of barrier between the grenade box wood and the cedar? or would it be ok to have them in full contact?
So the sealants that you used didn't leave behind any odor or anything? I guess that would be my concern with adding a sealant.
Awesome! Thanks for the info! I will look into what I gotta do to seal the current box. If anyone else has more input or advice lay it on me! I want this to be a success! I might even make it a multi-level Humi after taking a closer look at it tonight.
